Motor Mount Replacement

Motor mounts are not the kind of thing I expect to fail, but now that I’ve seen how my 50 year old originals look, I’d replace these as a matter of course on any old Thunderbird. I was getting a terrible clatter on right hand turns, probably the fan hitting the shroud when the engine was twisting and lifting under torque.

The mount assemblies appear to be designed to be installed on the engine block before the engine is lowered into the car. U-shaped rubber and metal insulators are attached to the block with two bolts. A 45 degree angle bracket is attached to the insulator, which provides a flat surface to rest on mounting plates on the front crossmember. A single stud on the angle bracket secures the mount assembly to the frame.

It’s not possible to remove the insulators from the angle bracket with the engine in the car, so disassembly requires removing the nuts holding the bracket to the frame . . .
. . . and the two bolts holding the insulators to the block. The nuts and bolts on my car were not tight. If they were, this could be a real bear. Access to the bolts on the driver’s side was the most difficult.
According to the manual, jacking the engine up an inch or two will allow removal and reinstallation. I used a board on top of the jack to spread the load under the oil pan, as the manual suggests. The pan still bent a little near the drain.

I have jackstands at their highest reach here. (I am always a little nervous being under a raised car, especially one that sits as low as the T-Bird.) With the jack and stands in place, I removed the left front wheel to get a little more room under the car.

I was not able to get the driver’s side mount out of the car with the engine jacked as high as it would go. (I removed the fan shroud to get as much lift as possible.) I removed the oil filter adapter to make room.

Once out, I unbolted the angle bracket from the insulator on the workbench and attached the old bracket to the new insulator. A single nut holds this assembly together.
Here are the old units next to the new. My old mounts were cracked, twisted and broken.
Installation is just six nuts and bolts, but some are hard to reach. I found it best to install the assembly loosely to the block first, then lower the motor. The lower the motor got, the better things lined up. Insulator, top, and angle bracket being lowered onto the mounting pad on the crossmember.

Some of the bolts were difficult to reach with limited room to swing a wrench. One took me a memorable two hours to get fully seated.

 

1 thought on “Motor Mount Replacement”

  1. I just pulled the motor out of my 64 ‘bird a couple weeks ago for a freshen up. Driver side mount pretty much fell apart upon removal. It will be much easier to replace/install them with the engine out of the car! I can’t believe how expensive they are–$80/pair compared to regular FE mounts (i.e.: mounts for a Galaxie can be bought for around $10/each). Doesn’t seem to be any other option really.

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